Date: December 7, 2024
Location: Richardson Mountains, Glenorchy, Otago, New Zealand
Total Trip Distance: 10.12 mi / 16.28 km
Total Elevation Gain: 6,257 ft / 1,907 m
Trip Duration: 9 hours 34 min
Team: Solo
Field Notes: I had spotted this potential route from the Glenorchy Queenstown road for the last year and wondered if it would provide access to the summit. This is an excellent, direct, and scrub free route. It is best climbed in early season when snow fills the South West couloir, otherwise it becomes dangerously broken with loose rock and may be unclimbable. The top pitch of the couloir steepens up just a bit, which indicates the '+' in difficulty. At the top of the couloir, sidle around to the North West and climb extremely loose rock to the summit. If climbing in a party of two or more a helmet would be a wise choice. There are excellent camp spots at 1,450 meters.
Rating: I, 1+
For the last year I've been driving past Stone Peak along the Glenorchy Queenstown road eyeing the snow filled couloir that tops out just shy of the summit. I knew the couloir was obviously climbable, but was unsure of the final climb to the summit. My original plan was to climb Stair Peak in the Rees Valley, but the Rees Valley Station had informed me that they were doing some work in that area. I drove back down the road, saw the Stone Peak route was still in, and made my decision.
The alarm woke me up at three thirty in the morning. These pre-dawn starts never get any easier and I hate the feeling of being sleep deprived. At four I was off and the stars flickered above. I headed north down the road until I spotted the 4wd track which would take me across the pasture. From here I began the steep climb towards Point 1234.
Summer is an amazing time in the Southern Alps and I couldn't believe how much light filled the sky this early in the morning. The temperature was perfect and I hardly broke a sweat. I sidled Point 1234 on the West and got my first view of the couloir. Wow, steeper than I thought. Today's climb was going to be a bit different. I was trying out my new ultra-light crampons that fit on hiking boots and trail runners - the Petzl Leopard. I also had my ultralight ice axe - the Black Diamond Venom LT.
There is much to be said about the ultra light mentality. Simply put - some people (like myself) find enjoyment in moving light and fast in the mountains. Other people like the comfort or style of the traditional approach. Other's prefer a blend. One's approach to a mountain is based off of experience, skill set, goals and mentality. Think for yourself, consciously evaluate your goals and skills, attempt the mountain, and then evaluate. There is ultimately no right or wrong.
Personally, I will not go back to a heavier ice axe. My Black Diamond Venom LT is an amazing, light weight tool that does everything I need it to. When it gets steeper, I will pair it with a second tool - The Black Diamond Venom LT Tech. If the terrain gets into the fifty degree range (2+ climbs or above) than I will use my Petzl Quarks. With crampons, if the climb is lower angle snow than I will use my Petzl Leopard's. If it gets slightly steeper than I will pair them with my mountaineering boots for more stability when front pointing. When the terrain gets into the forty degree range or above, than I will use my Black Diamond Sabretooth 12 point crampons.
You may think to yourself - wow...that's a lot of gear to own. Yeah, I also get out a lot. I also like to choose the best tool for the job to increase speed and safety which means I have more fun. For Stone Peak, the steeper section would push the Petzl Leopard's to my limit when paired with a flexible hiking boot and I wanted to see how it would work. When I got onto the steeper section of the couloir, I could immediately feel the difference in security. My mountaineering boots have a stiff sole which provides a solid platform to front point. My hiking boots felt like I had crampons attached to a sandal. Well, I guess I found my limit of these crampons on hiking boots!
I wound up having to kick steps all the way up the couloir. The snow was firm and my toes were in agony. This process was painfully slow but I could not afford to get lazy. Near the top, I angled off to the climbers right to try and get off the snow. I looked for a way to climb the South West facing terrain to the summit, but it was steep and broken. At a few points I considered turning around. I stayed focused and made my way to the top of the couloir. What would be a simple climb with mountaineering boots turned into an exhilarating climb!
I sidled to the North West aspect of the mountain and climbed unbelievably loose rock to the summit. Quite a few times I dislodged a massive piles of rocks that crashed below me which echoed around the mountains. Finally, I stood atop the summit. The Southern aspects of Mount Larkins were still covered in snow which glistened in the early morning light. Turning around I viewed the rarely climbed Major Peak. Across the lake I was amazed to see how much snow was still on Bold Peak and the Humboldt Mountains. As always, the views were incredible and I was grateful to be there.
I had a quick bite to eat and decided to get back down the couloir while the snow was still in good condition. I found the down climb to be slightly less arduous only due to the fact that I could follow in the steps I had previously kicked. It was great to be off the snow and I allowed myself my first real break in the day - six hours in.
The retreat back to the car never really gets any easier even though I get fitter by the trip. The legs still tire, the toes hurt, the sun relentless. Fortunately, what never gets old is a cold plunge in the stunning Lake Whakatipu post trip. After my dip, I parked my van in the shade and dozed off for a much needed afternoon nap. This was a great trip...stoked on Stone!
Happy days...
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