Mount Tyndall
- Mike Morelli
- Mar 21
- 4 min read
Updated: Mar 22
Date: March 20, 2025
Location: Harris Mountains, West Matukituki, Mount Aspiring National Park, Otago, New Zealand
Total Trip Distance: Bike - 11.48 mi / 18.47 km | Climb - 12.34 mi / 19.9 km
Total Elevation Gain: Bike - 1,037 ft / 316 m | Climb - 7,155 ft / 2,181 m
Trip Duration: 10 hours 55 min
Team: Alex Catalfamo
Field Notes: The North East ridge of Tyndall is accessed by climbing the Cascade Saddle route from Aspiring Hut. At the top of the climb, head South towards along the easy ridge towards the summit. Sidle below Point 2380 and aim directly for the North East ridge. Scramble loose rock to the summit. There are excellent campsites with reliable water sources along the ridge.
Rating: II, 1
We are approaching the end of the season now. Colder morning temperatures, leaves beginning to change colors, and broken glaciers are a signal of the outgoing tide.
It has been one hell of a season and I'm so grateful for all of the amazing trips that have happened throughout spring, summer, and autumn. With so many peaks climbed, it's funny the list grows bigger of new summits to explore.
The last time I was up the West Matukituki was in January climbing Bevan and Joffre. As I biked out of the valley on that trip I thought it would be my last trip up the Matuki this season. However, as Alex and I brainstormed ideas I thought it would be a good idea to take him up Tyndall.
Henry and I had gotten skunked on this peak last season because of a pour route choice and we ran out of time. Naturally, I wanted to repent and clear myself of all sins and find enlightenment atop the nearly 2,500-meter-tall peak.
So there we were, biking up the valley hoping we wouldn't have another mechanical issue like on Earnslaw. As we were nearing Aspiring Hut, I hit a rock and my left hand slipped off the handlebar and my right hand squeezed the front brake.
Bad combo.
I go directly over the front of my bike. In mid-air, I remembered a time when I was 13 when I went over the handlebars, landed on my shoulder, and broke my collarbone.
So I decided not to let my shoulder take the impact. Instead, I just sprawled out and ate dirt. My bike flipped into the bush. Other than my knee getting a pretty good thrashing I was okay. This was the closest call I've had all season. I'll take it.
It's always the moment when you mentally switch off.
At Aspiring Hut we stopped for breakfast and watched four Keas absolutely maul our bikes. I had a foreboding of bad things to come at the end of our day. As if it was going to make a difference, we threw a bunch of sticks on our bikes.
Light packs and full hearts we started up the Cascade Saddle track. I don't care how fit you are, this track is freaking steep. Long story short, we got to the top in two hours and twenty minutes and enjoyed a break. There was no wind and no clouds. The sun was oppressively hot and I felt like we were in Afghanistan.
We took the ridge heading South and got our first view of Tyndall. Snow melt from the glacier above provided pure drinking water and we gladly rehydrated.
At the toe of the glacier I laughed at myself for the route Henry and I took last time. This thing was a mess! I will say, however, that a fresh covering of snow from a few days prior made it look like a snowfield.
Either way, I took us directly under Point 2380 and we walked at the edge of the Isobel Glacier. We started up the North East Ridge, climbing about twenty meters below the actual ridge line. Just below the summit, we climbed up a ramp, joined the ridge, and made the final moves to the summit.
I looked down at my watch: four hours and thirty minutes from Aspiring Hut. We fist bumped - stoked on the feeling of fluid movement in the mountains.
The summit view from Tyndall is actually incredible. The Harris Mountains, Richardson's, the Main Divide, Fiordland, Aspiring, and even Cook was visible in the distance. What a place to be.
After our summit break, we scampered back down the ridge to Cascade Saddle and eventually back to Aspiring Hut. We wondered about the state of our bikes. Other than my seat being completely mauled, it seemed we were good.
I got on my bike. Alex got on his bike. Alex started to pedal. Then his chain got completely jammed. Jammed so badly that Alex considered walking out. We spent fifteen minutes trying to un-jam the chain while getting savagely attacked by sandflies.
At a breaking point, Alex walks into the hut and asks for help. A girl tells him, my boyfriend is good with bikes. I'll get him.
Meanwhile I'm trying to undo the chain. Then this couple walks out and the guy goes, oh wow, your chain is jammed. Hmm, I don't know how to get it out. I didn't bring any tools.
I'm realizing in the moment that this guy doesn't have the heart to help. He was probably sitting inside next to a fire writing poetry and drinking herbal tea.
Meanwhile, I'm on the front lines battling sandflies while Alex is, quote, "ready to carry the bike out the West Matukituki." It felt like Black Hawk Down.
It was do or die.
Then I look at the bike guy and say, do you want to try and undo it?
His response was (and no I am not kidding), oh no, sorry, I don't have any soap to wash my hands.
I don't have any soap to wash my hands! I don't have any soap to wash my hands!
This is the state of men in the world today! Herbal tea and hand soap.
Then Alex comes up and grabs the bike like he's trying to strangle it and rips the chain free. His biceps flex in the evening light. I tilt my head back and howl like a wolf.
We are free.
The couple runs back inside to their books and tea while we fly out the West Matukituki - blood pumping and brains steaming.
Happy days...
Comments