Date: January 16-18, 2025
Location: Main Divide, Bonar Glacier, Mount Aspiring National Park, Otago, New Zealand
Total Trip Distance: Bike - 11.48 mi / 18.47 km | Climb - 21.57 mi / 34.71 km
Total Elevation Gain: Bike - 1,037 ft / 316 m | Climb - 7,731 ft / 2,356 m
Trip Duration: 3 days
Team: Solo
Rating: Bevan - II, 1+ | Joffre - II, 1
Field Notes: To reach Bevan Col, take the Upper West Matukituki Valley Track to Scotts Rock Biv. Although the track is "unmaintained," the route is cut with the occasional pole. At 1,000 meters the track climbs above a waterfall and into a gut. Head to the climbers right (northeast) up a series of slabs until a flat area is reached at 1300 meters with great camping spots. From here, initially head north to avoid steep terrain, then swinging back around to the east/southeast to gain easy rock and snow slopes the lead directly up to the Col. Bevan is climbed directly from the Col which I found to be surprisingly steep with terrible rock quality. Joffre is best climbed by sidling around the rocky ledges at the Col and getting onto the edge of the Bonar. If you sidle too high you will get bluffed out. Walk along the Bonar to the base of Joffre where an easy ramp can be found at the southern end of the peak. Take the ramp and walk to the summit. The Bevan Col slabs would be dangerous in bad weather.
It's been a spring and summer to remember. Since the torrential weather in September, there have been countless fine spells that have allowed for many grand days of skiing, mountaineering, and tramping.
Unsurprisingly, I found myself gearing up for another trip up the West Matukituki. The original intention was a light and fast attempt on the North West Ridge of Aspiring, but Henry's ankle wasn't cooperating so I had to shift gears.
I figured a great idea was to head up to Bevan Col and climb a few lesser-visited peaks in the region. This would allow me to scout the route and get more in tune with a part of the Matukituki I've yet to explore.
I wanted two nights out in the hills, so on day one I started late and ended late. Camp was set up in the dark. I found a nice little spot next to the river on a sandy patch.
To no surprise, sandflies woke me up in the early hours. I quickly packed and headed up the valley towards the infamous Bevan Col slabs. At the head of the valley, I skirted around the waterfall on a ground trail. A large cairn indicated the start of the slabs and I followed a trail to the top.
At 1,300 meters I arrived at a clearing with wonderful camp spots. I was unsure if I had actually climbed the slabs because there was a distinct ground trail the whole way up. I dropped my overnight gear here, buried it under rocks to avoid the Kea's, and continued up to the Col.
The climbing was fast. A good cairn system marks the whole way and I never had to put on crampons. I was using my ultralight system on this trip: ultralight axe, 10-point flexible crampons, and light hiking footwear. Anything else would be completely unnecessary.
At the top of the Col, I stopped at an idyllic tarn and admired the stunning South West Ridge of Mount Aspiring. It beckons to be climbed next season.
To my left stood Bevan and I wandered up the slopes. It's a short climb from the Col but it looked very steep. The rock was of atrocious quality with plenty of choss. I kept saying out loud "fucking hell this is steep for a Grade 1." I climbed the direct East Ridge from the Col, wondering if for some reason I was off route. There were two distinct steps on the climb where a fall would be extremely consequential. The rappel tat confirmed this.
The views from the summit were spectacular. Mount Aspiring, the mountains of the Bonar, the remote Waipara Range, Barff, and the lower Matukituki. It was stunning.
I didn't hang out for long and wanted to continue my journey towards Joffre. I wondered if that would also be harder than indicated. I made a few very delicate moves off Bevan, found a patch of continuous snow, and boot-skied down to the Col.
From here, I sidled around the ridge leading to Joffre and got onto the edge of the Bonar. Soft snow and flat terrain made it unnecessary to don crampons. Joffre looked very intimidating from the glacier and doubts stirred. I got up directly under the face in the scorching sun and looked for a way up.
At the Southern end of the mountain I saw a ramp that lead to the South East Ridge. I couldn't see the whole route and felt like it was my only real option, so I took it. Ten minutes later I stood at the summit. I don't think I even used my hands. This was a walk and Bevan was a scramble.
Again, the views were profound. My favorite was looking out towards Barff, the Waipara Range, and the Olivines. I enjoyed some food, water, and a moment off my feet. The weather was spectacular and I soaked in as much of the moment as possible.
Easily off the peak, I ran back towards Bevan Col, charged up from two glorious summits. It was light work on the descent and I got back to camp, only to find the stones removed and my sleeping bag shredded from some extremely curious Kea's. Fortunately, only a bit of down was removed and it was easily fixed with gear tape.
I spent the rest of the afternoon doing cold plunges in the nearby stream and getting cooked like a rotisserie chicken from the heat underneath my tarp tent. As soon as the light faded I fell into a sporadic but good enough sleep.
Morning was calm. I was in no rush to leave and enjoyed the views as I consumed breakfast and too much coffee. As the caffeine hit, I rushed down the Bevan Col slabs too far to the climber's right and had a moment of "Oh, this would be terrible in bad weather." Easily enough, I course-corrected but made a mental note for next time.
I merrily tramped my way back to my bike at Aspiring Hut and enjoyed a brief conversation with two other mountaineers heading in the opposite direction.
I only took one rest from the campsite back to my bike as the sun was ruthlessly hot and I wondered if I was genuinely melting. Thankfully, a breeze blew down valley and pushed me back to my van in forty-five minutes which capped an end to a fantastic three days in the hills.
Happy days...
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