Date: October 14, 2024
Location: Harris Mountains, West Matukituki, Otago, New Zealand
Total Trip Distance: 9.39 mi / 15.11 km
Total Elevation Gain: 6,364 ft / 1,940 m
Trip Duration: 9 hours 40 mins
Team: Solo
Field Notes: Start at Raspberry Flat car park and walk to the spur between Raspberry Creek and Wishbone Creek. Climbing directly up the spur following a sheep's trail until a flat spot at 1,020 meters. Cross a creek and head east through scrub joining the ridge at 1,380 meters. Take the spur directly out of Wishbone Creek on the true left and head towards Pt 2015. Begin to sidle into the basin below Fog Peak at roughly 1800 meters. Join the West Ridge at any convenient point and head directly to the summit.
Climbing Grade: I, 2
Ski Grade: 3.1, PD, E2
After a long period of inactivity in the hills, the climber only wants only one thing: good weather. Good weather seems to solve almost every problem. Depression, sadness, laziness, sickness, you name it! Things come alive in good weather.
What good weather also brings is a healthy dose of indecision. The last eight weeks have been simply torturous and my ever increasing list of trips easily doubled. Now the weather was good - what to do?
I was in conversation with a few people for different trips, but ultimately my loyalties lay in the magical West Matukituki valley. Also, I couldn’t wait. People were talking about trips later in the week and I wanted to go now because God only knows how quick the forecast can change.
It was five in the morning when I stepped outside my blue Nissan Caravan onto the gravel parking lot at Raspberry Flat. It was good to be home. Cloud sat somewhere around 1300 meters in the valley and I second guessed the “fine with some clouds” forecast.
A fruit smoothie was consumed and I got underway. After scouting the route with binoculars the day before, I took the spur directly between Raspberry Creek and Wishbone Creek. Fast travel was had following the obvious sheep trail that took me to a flat spot at 1,020 meters to cross a creek.
Once I skipped across the stones, I headed up and to the east to meet the ridge on the true left of Wishbone Creek at 1,380 meters. Don’t climb above this point as the spur bluffs out and you will need to down climb.
I crossed avalanche debris and took the middle ridge that splits the two gully’s, heading up towards point 2015. The snow was hard and the grade steep, so I switched from ski crampons to actual crampons and ice axe. The sun had finally began to touch these northwesterly aspects and everything about me smiled being in the sun.
I climbed higher until 1800 meters where I began to sidle east towards Fog Peak. Conditions were stunning and allowed for fast travel. The lower elevations of the valley were a beautiful spring green while the middle and upper elevation bands glistened white. I have never seen Rob Roy Peak look so beautiful. My favorite mountain.
One hundred and fifty meters below the summit I gained the West ridge. The day had been a slog, carrying skis on my back most of the way. My heart was pounding and I had to stop every few minutes for a breath.
I looked around. In all directions were an ocean of peaks. Here I was, alone, atop a lofty ridge with my heart ferociously pumping blood to my body to continue the ascent. The wind was non existent and the sun worked its magic on the snow, softening it just the necessary amount for my skis to do their job. I smiled that smile where, you’ve done a magical thing and only you know how special it really is. A few minutes later I stood on the summit.
The descent off Fog Peak provided variable skiing up top, and excellent corn skiing on the lower ridges back down to Wishbone Creek. I stepped out of my ski boots and enjoyed a long break in the sun. Truly, this is what I live for. I took a moment to pray and thank God, life, the people apart of it for making this opportunity happen. Sheer gratitude and love for life.
Unfortunately, that gratitude wore off once I started smashing and falling down the steep tussock slopes! How just one moment ago I was all spiritual and thirty minutes later I was cursing the high heavens! Only the mountains can do this to the soul…
At the valley bottom, almost ten hours later, the gratitude had seeped back into my core and I finally could stop for the day. I had timed it perfectly and now it was time to refuel and take a cold bath. Under a scorching afternoon sun, I watched a small avalanche release from Craigroyston Peak. The day had come to an end.
Happy days...
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